By Suzanne Corbett, Food / Travel Editor
Fish fans have been lining up since Ash Wednesday to get their share of the season’s specialty Lenten fish plates. While I love to hit as many local church fish frys as possible. However, I have to admit after the first few weeks of Lent, I start craving something different
Thanks to St. Louis’s creative restaurateurs I’ve found an eclectic mix of gourmet and international inspired seafood. Beginning with Brasserie by Niche’s, where bistro scallops are citrus-braised and served with endive, pickled beetroot, arugula, and champagne beurre blanc.
For seafood with an Italian accent consider Porano. The fast-casual Italian restaurant from Niche Food Group, offers two specialty dishes for the Lent season, Strozzapreti and Shrimp Pasta (with sun-dried tomato, pesto, garlic butter, fresh lemon, and parmesan) and a Salmon Cobb Salad with lox, sungold tomato, cucumber, and hard-boiled egg). Both available through Lent.
Pizza loving foodies should head to Fordo’s Killer Pizza for its Lenten pizzas. The Green Thai Curry & Mussel Pizza special, or the Scallop and Old Bay Béchamel Pizza special. And for the goumet, Casa Don Alfonso, located in The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis recreates centuries-old dishes as its Tuna Tartare (shown left) with capers, parsley, mustard, chili pepper-scented mayonnaise, mint yogurt, and bruschetta; and Ziti with Lobster Ragu – ziti pasta, lobster, Nicoise olives, anchovies, capers and chili flakes.
Traditional Asian flavors and cooking techniques are the foundation to DD Mau rice bowls, vermicelli bowls, salads, tacos, bánh mì, bao buns, fried rice, and spring rolls, which can be made with Viet Cajun salmon, shrimp, fish, or coconut shrimp. Two must try dishes at Indo, which is owned and operated by James Beard nominated Chef Nick Bognar, offers Isaan Hamachi ( yellowtail sashimi, candied garlic, and coconut naam pla), and a dry-aged Sake Sashimi with king salmon and ginger-mint.
Traditionalists who simply want a little different take or place for fish fry Fridays consider these options.
Eckert’s Farm’s Country Restaurant in Belleville offers more than single dinner plates/baskets. Fish is avaible for purchased by the pound, and families order the Family Cod Dinner for Four to-go, which includes fries and mac and cheese for $50.
Beer battered fish (shown left) is the specialty at SqWires. Located in Lafayette Square, SqWires beer battered white fish and popcorn shrimp dinners are plated with sweet braised onions, whipped potatoes, green beans and creamy slaw. Dished up on large or small plates, dinners are available for dine-in or carry outs along with an online ordering.
Beer battered fish is always great when the batter is made with local brews. Peacemaker has teamed up with 4 Hands Brewery Kirkwood to serve Octohaze Beer-Battered Fish & Chips. AN Atlantic cod dipped and fried in an Octohaze beer batter served with fries and house made tartar sauce. Complete the plate and order an Octohaze beer on the side. Finally, Schlafly Beer ‘s signature Fish & Fries uses its Hefeweizen to create its batter, which allow for a crisp and light coating. Making this plate one of the best among those searching for what’s been deemed at Lenten fish frys, God’s Cod.
Perhaps one of the best fish plates are those you make yourself. Fish isn’t hard to make. Just make sure you keep it fresh. I plan to feature catfish at my home fish fry. Here’s one of my favorite fried fish recipes I develop for classes I taught at Dierberg’s School of Cooking.
Spicy Fried Catfish with Lemon Chili Tartar Sauce
(recipe by Suzanne Corbett)
1pound skinless catfish fillets
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup yellow cornmeal
2 teaspoons lemon pepper
3/4 teaspoon chili powder
3/4 teaspoon garlic powder
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
vegetable oil for frying
tartar sauce
Cut fillets into smaller pieces if needed. In a shallow bowl or plate, combine cornmeal, lemon pepper, chili powder, garlic powder, and salt. Dip the catfish into the cornmeal mixture, coating well. In a large skillet, heat 2 inches of oil to 375 F over medium-high heat. Add fish to the hot oil, a few at a time, making sure not to crowd the pan. Cook until golden brown, 3-4 minutes. Remove and drain on a paper towel-lined platter. Serve with Lemon Chili Tartar Sauce and Hushpuppies. Makes 4-6 servings
Lemon Chili Tartar Sauce
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon pickle relish, drained
1 tablespoon chopped scallions
1 tablespoon minced serreno chili pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons minced capers
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and the zest of one lemon
Mix all the about ingredients together and chill.
Fish Fries Around St. Louis
934 Rue De La Banque, Creve Coeur, offers lunch and dinner hours: 11 am – 7 pm every Friday during Lent. Insider tip: Arrive early, especially for lunch. The catch: fried cod and jack salmon (also sold by the pound), catfish, clams, shrimp, and clam chowder.
St. Ferdinand Catholic Church
1765 Charbonier Road, Florissant, Fridays, a popular location where fish frys are held year-round, from 3 – 7:30 PM St Ferd’s is considered one of the area’s oldest fish frys, which began in 1953. The catch: Fried or baked cod, shrimp and catfish prepared regular or Cajun style
906 Eichelberger Street, St. Louis, Fridays during Lent except Good Friday, from 4:30 – 8 pm. home of the St. Louis Mexican fish fry where dining in includes with mariachis entertainment. The catch: cod, jack salmon, shrimp, along with chile rellenos, bean tostados and cheese tamale options.
Holy Trinity Serbian Orthodox Church Fish Fest
1910 Serbian Drive St. Louis, Every Friday during Lent. 5 – 7:30 pm. Serbian side dishes, desserts, and a full bar with Serian beer. The catch: Fried catfish, tilapia, fish tacos, boiled shrimp, and baked cod with creole sauce.
St. Mary Magdalen Catholic Church
2618 S. Brentwood Blvd., St. Louis, Every Friday during Lent except Good Friday, 4:30 – 7:30pm. home of the original drive-in fish fry and the God’s Cod platter. The catch: Cod, baked salmon, fish tacos and gumbo.
2 Gravois Road, Fenton MO, Fridays from 3- 7pm or until sold out. Perched near the banks of the Meramec River in Fenton, the Legion’s community fish fries on Fridays now until June. The catch: Hand breaded cod, shrimp, and whole catfish and boneless catfish filets.
St Francis of Assisi Catholic Church
4556 Telegraph Road, St. Louis, Fridays from 4-7 pm, Good Friday 4 – 6 pm). Famous for hand-breaded jack salmon and meatless spaghetti. The catch: Cod (square fish or beer battered filets), jack salmon, catfish, shrimp and crab cakes. Insider tip: Don’t forget to try the homemade red sauce with the jacks and the remoulade sauce with the crab cakes.
St. Nicholas Orthodox Church
12550 South 40 Drive, St. Louis, Fridays March 14, 21 and 28, from 4 – 7 pm offers its Greek Style Fish Fry. The catch: fried and baked fish served with optional sides of spanakopita, Greek Mac n Cheese and Grecian Green Beans. Don’t forget the baklava.
